The restaurant at the back of the park doesn’t take bank cards – a fact I only notice as I’m led to a table. I shake my head and smile apologetically, opening my wallet to show a lone 20 Lev note.
The waiter laughs. “Sit, sit,” he says. “No problem.”
As I soon discover, 20LV/£8.70 is, indeed, no problem. After lentil soup, a plate of stuffed cabbage leaves, and a local beer, I still have change for a tip.
Sofia can be scruffy around the edges. Cold War traces remain. In the centre, the Largo, a collection of three buildings from the 1950s, houses Bulgarian government offices. At its outskirts, grey and brown tower…
