This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Bosnians have a saying that goes: ‘Where logic ends, Bosnia and Herzegovina begins.’ Which makes complete sense when you dig into its history. This former Ottoman frontier is one of only three Muslim-majority countries in Europe, a heritage visible in the labyrinthine bazaars and jewel-bright mosques of Sarajevo and Mostar.
Walk out of the capital’s Old Town, however, and you’ll encounter the fine geometry of Austro-Hungarian churches, followed by hazy Yugoslavian-style basement bars that pulse with Balkan turbo-folk music. Confronted with a history spanning many…